From dramatic coastal walks, quiet beaches and bracing sea swims to excellent local food and a plethora of saunas, discover a different side of the South Hams beyond the peak season.

There is a particular joy in the South Hams when the summer crowds have gone home. The beaches are quieter, the coastal paths feel more expansive and navigating the Devon lanes becomes a breeze. There’s more space to roam, more time to linger and less pressure to fit everything in.

Five years ago, I moved from London to Devon and took over Seaflowers, a waterside holiday home and retreat venue on Frogmore Creek, between Salcombe and Dartmouth. My grandparents first fell in love with the area while honeymooning here and bought Seaflowers in 1990. My parents then converted the property into a bed and breakfast in 2011. When I took over, I partnered with local artist Bert Fowler of Bert and Buoy to transform it into today’s modern holiday home.

Having walked the entire South West Coast Path, I can honestly say this stretch of coastline is among the most beautiful. I’m endlessly grateful my grandparents chose this lesser-known corner of Devon. Situated on a peninsula, Frogmore benefits from dramatic coastline, beaches in either direction, easy access to charming coastal towns and Dartmoor’s open plains, as well as many wonderful local hotspots.

While summer has its obvious appeal, the South Hams is also rewarding outside the peak season. You can discover quieter corners and enjoy being outdoors without needing perfect weather.

Get out and explore

For me, the best way to appreciate the South Hams is on foot. The South West Coast Path takes in rugged headlands, sandy coves, shingle beaches and sweeping sea views. You don’t have to tackle a full day’s hike to enjoy it.

One of my favourite local routes is around Start Point, where the lighthouse stands on an exposed headland overlooking the sea. From Hallsands, you can follow the coast towards the lighthouse, or take a shorter walk from the Start Point car park towards Mattiscombe Beach before returning through the fields.

Another option is to walk a section of the coast between Salcombe and Torcross. The full route is around 13 miles, but it can be broken into shorter sections, including stretches towards Prawle Point, Lannacombe and Start Point.

The beaches are equally worth visiting beyond summer. Slapton Sands stretches for three miles of shingle along Start Bay, while Lannacombe and East Portlemouth offer large sandy beaches. Lannacombe Beach has a special significance for me, with a bench overlooking the water dedicated to my grandparents, Raymond and Evelyn Greenwood.

Sea swimming is possible throughout the year, but always check conditions and know your limits. There are several thriving swim communities, so if you’re seeking the safety of company, an early morning swim at Slapton Sands is a good bet.

Make time for good food

We’re spoilt for choice locally.

For breakfast or brunch, Outside, near Bantham, is fantastic, with its café serving homegrown food from its polytunnels year-round. The Village Farm Cafe at East Portlemouth also serves delicious seasonal and locally sourced food. In Kingsbridge, The Crabshell Inn is a lovely spot for a pizza and a drink overlooking the water. Frothed does excellent coffee, and check out AJ’s for freshly made wheatgrass juices that give an unbeatable health kick!

The Start Bay Inn at Torcross is a classic for fish and chips by the sea, and a firm favourite with my family. Britannia at the Beach in Beesands is another good choice for seafood. If you’re looking for something more upmarket, try The Seahorse in Dartmouth or The Oyster Shack near Bigbury. The Bear and Blacksmith in nearby Chillington does incredible roasts – a must if you’re visiting on a Sunday. They also do great fish and steak nights, and often put on live music.

For local produce to take home, there’s Springfield Farm Shop, a short walk away, and Stokeley Farm Shop, with an excellent butcher counter and its own tap house.

It’s worth checking opening days before travelling, as some places adjust their hours outside the summer season.

Find a different kind of coastal escape

One of the pleasures of an autumn or winter visit is combining time outdoors with a little warmth afterwards. There are several local beach saunas, including my favourite, Spring + Sauna, which overlooks a natural spring pond where you can take a dip in all weathers. The Old Stable’s sauna at East Portlemouth has stunning views of Salcombe across the water, while The Somewhere Sauna at Bantham is currently running a pop-up at Outside. Start Bay Studio at Torcross has yoga classes year round, and is soon expanding with a strength room, coffee shop and sauna. 

The area also has plenty to explore beyond the coast. Dartmouth and Salcombe are both worth a wander, with independent shops, cafés and lovely waterfront settings. Totnes has a quirky market-town feel and a thriving market on Fridays and Saturdays, while National Trust properties such as Overbeck’s above Salcombe and Coleton Fishacre near Kingswear have beautiful gardens.

Come outside the summer season and you’ll discover that the South Hams hasn’t lost its magic. If anything, with a little more space, a slower pace and the coast at its wildest, it has just as much to offer.

Stay at Seaflowers

Seaflowers sits on Frogmore Creek, between Salcombe and Dartmouth, making it an ideal base for exploring the wider South Hams. It’s a seven-bedroom waterside holiday home sleeping up to 14 guests. Guests can hire paddleboards to explore from the water at the bottom of the garden when the tide and conditions allow, and there’s a hot tub for relaxing after a day outdoors.

During the quieter months, you can book the whole house for a group stay or enjoy a more intimate room-only escape.

Visit / seaflowers.co.uk

Top image: Carl Brightman