City breaks
The Perfect 48-Hour-Getaway in St Albans
Built on the site of the ancient Roman city of Verulamium, St Albans offers layer upon layer of history. Yet alongside its cathedral, Roman theatre, medieval architecture and centuries-old market, you’ll find stylish hotels, independent shops, award-winning eateries and a lively pub culture that proves this city is well-worth discovering.
Here’s how to spend the perfect 48 hours in one of England’s most characterful cathedral cities…
Day One: Discover Roman Britain
Check in
For a central base, The Samuel Ryder Hotel offers boutique-style accommodation in a Grade II-listed building once connected to the founder of golf’s Ryder Cup. Alternatively, The White Hart Hotel and St Michaels Manor place visitors in the heart of the historic centre, while those seeking luxury can retreat to nearby Sopwell House.
Morning: Walk Through Roman History
Start your weekend at Verulamium Park, where traces of Roman Britain remain remarkably visible nearly 2,000 years later.
Begin at the surviving sections of the Roman Wall, once part of the defensive circuit surrounding Verulamium. Built between AD265 and AD270, sections still rise several metres above the ground, offering a tangible connection to one of Britain’s largest Roman settlements.
A short stroll away stands the fascinating Hypocaust, Britain’s earliest known central heating system. Protected within its own structure, the 1,800-year-old remains reveal the ingenuity of Roman engineering, while the surviving mosaic floor hints at the sophistication of life in ancient Verulamium.
Continue to Verulamium Museum, widely regarded as one of Britain’s finest Roman museums. Here you’ll find intricate mosaics, recreated Roman rooms, ancient tools, jewellery and coins that reveal the everyday lives of the people who once lived here.
Lunch: Leisurely dining
After a morning exploring Roman Britain, head to The Waffle House, one of St Albans’ most beloved institutions. Set inside a 16th-century watermill overlooking the River Ver, it serves sweet and savoury Belgian waffles in an idyllic setting.
Alternatively, if you’re looking for something lighter, St Albans sophisticated food scene offers plenty of options designed for leisurely dining rather than rushed refuelling. Little Marrakech brings the warmth and flavours of Morocco to the city centre, while if something more Mediterranean appeals, Bar Meze offers vibrant sharing plates in a relaxed atmosphere that encourages long lunches and leisurely conversation.
Afternoon: Britain’s First Saint
History continues at St Albans Cathedral, the oldest site of continuous Christian worship in Britain.
The cathedral’s soaring nave is the longest in England, while its medieval wall paintings and magnificent architecture make it one of the country’s most fascinating religious buildings.
Take time to visit the Shrine of St Alban, Britain’s first saint, whose martyrdom gave the city its name. Outside, a pathway south of the cathedral marks the location of a Roman burial ground where archaeologists discovered evidence connected to early pilgrimages to Saint Alban’s shrine.
Evening: Dinner, wine and culture
As evening falls, St Albans proves it is far more than a historic cathedral city. The dining scene has evolved into one of the most exciting in Hertfordshire, with everything from independent wine bars to award-winning restaurants.
For a relaxed evening, MUST Wine Bar specialises in carefully curated wines and sharing plates designed for lingering conversations, while Baruccio offers Italian-inspired aperitivos, coffee and wines in a laid-back setting. Those looking for a livelier atmosphere can head to Moka, where live music and fire performances create a memorable night out.
If visiting during summer, book tickets for a performance at the Roman Theatre of Verulamium as part of OVO’s summer festival. Built around AD140 and the only surviving Roman theatre of its kind in Britain, it now hosts acclaimed open-air productions beneath the stars, creating one of the country’s most atmospheric cultural experiences.
Film lovers should make time for The Odyssey Cinema, a beautifully restored Art Deco picture house offering a uniquely elegant movie-going experience.
Day Two: Medieval markets and modern culture
Morning: Climb the Clock Tower
On weekends in spring and summer, begin the day at St Albans Clock Tower, the only surviving medieval town belfry in England. Climb its 93 narrow steps for panoramic views across cathedral rooftops, winding streets and the Hertfordshire countryside.
From here, wander through the historic heart of the city. Explore Fishpool Street, one of St Albans’ most picturesque thoroughfares, lined with period houses. Continue to French Row and Market Place, where centuries of history mingle with contemporary cafés and boutiques.
Shopping
One of St Albans’ greatest pleasures is simply wandering. The compact city centre unfolds at a gentle pace, its medieval streets lined with independent boutiques, heritage stores and contemporary brands that encourage browsing rather than rushing.
If your visit coincides with a Wednesday or Saturday, spend time exploring the award-winning Charter Market, which has been trading here for more than 1,000 years. Fresh produce, artisan foods, crafts and antiques fill the streets, bringing colour and energy to the historic centre.
Lunch: Independent flavours
St Albans has become something of a foodie destination. For lunch, try award-winning Lussmanns Sustainable Kitchen, known for seasonal ingredients and ethically sourced menus, or explore one of the many independent cafés tucked among the medieval streets.
Afternoon: Hidden stories
Spend the afternoon at St Albans Museum and Gallery, housed within the city’s former town hall. The building itself is worth visiting, not least for the atmospheric Courtroom Café, located inside the old octagonal courtroom complete with judge’s chair and dock.
History enthusiasts can seek out the city’s growing collection of blue plaques, commemorating notable residents including Stephen Hawking and heritage champion Frederic Kitton.
A wellness pause
For visitors embracing the growing trend of wellness-focused travel, St Albans offers plenty of opportunities to slow down and recharge.
The Beauty House by Champneys, located on Market Place, brings the expertise of the famous spa brand into the city centre while nearby, Neal’s Yard Remedies combines its renowned range of organic wellbeing products with treatment rooms offering therapies including massage, reflexology and acupuncture.
Those seeking more cutting-edge recovery experiences can visit Heal Wellness Clinics, where treatments include cryotherapy, infrared sauna sessions and hyperbaric oxygen therapy.
Evening: Raise a glass
St Albans has long been associated with brewing and real ale. Home to CAMRA, it boasts an enviable collection of traditional pubs and modern bars.
Start with a pint at The Boot before moving on to Saint & Sinner for cocktails and a lively atmosphere. End your weekend with dinner in one of the city’s many independent restaurants and reflect on a destination that effortlessly combines nearly 2,000 years of history with a thoroughly modern sense of style.
Why St Albans?
Many visitors head to Bath, York or Oxford in search of a historic city break. Yet St Albans quietly offers many of the same rewards: Roman ruins, medieval streets, a magnificent cathedral and centuries of fascinating stories. Add in a flourishing food scene, stylish places to stay, independent shopping, wellness experiences and a thriving cultural calendar, and you have all the ingredients for a memorable weekend away.
Effortlessly easy from London and on major train lines and roads, St Albans might just be England’s perfect city break.
To make the most of your stay visit www.enjoystalbans.com and @enjoystalbans and if you’re partial to a pint then check out the new illustrated map of pubs in St Albans here.
Top image by Ricky Barnett
